live's egg is indeed getting darker, and more olive green! As you can see in this picture, I have white eggs to help compare the color and shade of Olive's eggs. The first egg after starting to lay again is very light and has a blue/green tint. The second egg is darker, but still has a bluish tint to it. Now, this is day three of laying after her bought with broodiness, and her egg is finally getting an olive green tone. I have NO idea why this is happening, but it is interesting.
Date Line: May 24, 2014 live's egg is indeed getting darker, and more olive green! As you can see in this picture, I have white eggs to help compare the color and shade of Olive's eggs. The first egg after starting to lay again is very light and has a blue/green tint. The second egg is darker, but still has a bluish tint to it. Now, this is day three of laying after her bought with broodiness, and her egg is finally getting an olive green tone. I have NO idea why this is happening, but it is interesting. Olive's First Egg 1st and 2nd egg post broodiness Today's egg Yep, it looks like we are back to pigment normalcy. So far she isn't showing any signs of being broody, and the rest of the girls are still laying eggs, except for Butterdud of course. I think I'm going to get 3 more hens. I re-read the ordinance regarding keeping chickens for L.A. county and it appears that I can have as many chickens as I can house healthfully. For me, that would be no more than 8. We'll see, I might get a couple of easter eggers, and my husband wants to get a chicken for himself so he can name it what ever he wants....oh dear! You may also like to read...
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Date Line May 22, 2014 nother day has gone by and here is today's egg from Olive. As you can see, it's getting darker, but it is still a bit bluish rather than her usual olive green egg. What gives? At least it is getting darker. She was also a little clingy around the nest after she laid this egg. Uh no, I hope she isn't thinking of going broody again so soon! I thought we had an understanding. Anyway, it is still a very pretty color egg, just not the olive green I expected to keep receiving. Hopefully tomorrows egg will be darker still. live FINALLY laid an egg today! After 11 agonizing (for me) days of being eggless, and 3 of those 11 days spent being broody, the spell has been broken at last. Now I can look forward to receiving her pretty olive green eggs again. YAY! Oh joy! But wait a minute... what's this? It appears that her long awaited egg seems to be a different color now, it appears to be more blue and less green. I hope this will right itself, don't get me wrong, I like the bluish egg, but I purchased an olive egger not an Easter egger. See what I mean when you compare her first egg and this recent one? It's definitely got more blue in it. If you look carefully, there is an olive green spot on her bluish egg, so her next egg may resume its characteristic olive green color. I hope. At any rate, Olive is laying once more, and hopefully, she will not be broody ever again! Did you hear that Olive? NO MORE BROODINESS! I think she got the message. Other Chicken Chat Articles:
Today on Chicken Chat, I will be examining the question of whether or not sand is a good litter to use in the coop, and run, not so much the brooder, since I don't raise those fuzzy little peeps. Now dear reader, make yourself comfy and get ready to learn something! and! I think most of us are familiar with sand right? At some point in our lives we've either had its sugary grains squish between our toes as we've walked along the sea shore, or we've sifted its fine grit through our fingers in the play ground sand box, but what about placing sand in your chickens' habitat? There is quite a lot of controversy regarding this tiny granule being used within the confines of chicken coops, runs, and brooders isn't there? I myself was faced with the decision as to whether or not I should use it, so I did some careful research before going gung-ho. This seemingly simple material is anything but simple, as you will soon see. Think Before You ActBefore you do anything in regards to animal husbandry, you really should read up on the issue at hand, and not just from one source that is biased one way or another. So before you even think about placing sand and your chickens together, reading up on it and weighting all the pros and cons is essential to avoid costly mistakes and even worse, the loss of your pet or lively hood. This is what this article is about, considering all those little facts and common sense issues, and then weighing them in the scale of decision. Because as most of us have learned, what works for somebody, may not work for another. There are variables to consider. Here we go.... What Is Sand?First, I think we need to understand what exactly is "sand." Basically it's naturally weathered and/or mechanically crushed up rocks like feldspar and quartz and other minerals, such as ferrous oxide, magnesium, and calcium carbonate, and even fossilized sea creatures. You will find sand by bodies of water, or in deserts, which are dry ancient seas according to geologists, and even near rock formations. There is even sharp and smooth sand, and natural or synthetic sand. So it follows that just as there are many different types of rocks, there is also many different types of sand. As if that wasn't enough to boggle the mind, the differences don't end at what type of rock they once were, or their granular composition, but also by the size of their granules. For the buffs of forensic type shows, if I'm not mistaken, there are no less then 6 different types of beach sand, and the origin of a particular type of beach sand can be found by examining its contents, who knew? There are even sands that can contain only one type of crushed up rock, or some that have as many as 20 different types of tiny rocks and minerals within them, all of different sizes and proportions of materials, it is just amazing! So knowing this, it is safe to say that not all sand is good for every application that calls for it. For instance, though concrete contains sand, it is not good to use beach sand, because the sand itself may be too uniform in grain size and the salt content in beach sand also weakens the mortar. There are also types of sand that are better than others at making molds in foundries and other factories. See my point? So surly, there is a type of sand that is better for using with your chickens right? Hold your horses, I'm getting there, just hold on a bit longer, we still have to investigate sand itself a little more. The Phi (Φ) Scale of SandI'll bet many of you didn't know that there is something called the Phi Scale that measures the grain size of dirt, all the way up from clay particles to boulders, right? Well why would that be important regarding putting sand in a chicken coop, or run? It's very important if you want to avoid putting you and your birds at risk of contracting silicosis, which is a nasty respiratory condition where fine silica particles make mincemeat of lung tissue from long term exposure and inhalation. Chickens do create clouds of dust when they scratch, and you will do the same when you scoop the poop, but then dirt floors would be just as risky since clay particles are much finer than larger sand particles. However, any sand that is smaller than 0.5-0.25 mm (medium grain sand) would most likely start causing problems with respiratory function, like play sand, which has a much smaller grain size then construction sand. Not many bags of sand from your local home improvement stores have the Phi Scale information printed on them other than maybe the grain size being stated as fine, medium, or course, and don't count on the sales people knowing any of this stuff. Sands that are course (1.0-0.5 mm), and very course (2.0-1.0 mm) would be less of a risk for your birds and you. Any dust that is washed from the highly recommended construction sand, is actually silt and clay particles. These particles will inhibit the making of strong concrete, so they are washed out before the construction sand is bagged. Therefore, any subsequent dust would be from the breaking down of the remaining sand grains through mechanical means of crushing the bags during moving and stacking. The resulting dust would be from the quartz, silica, feldspar, mica, all of which are things not good to breathe. So you may have to rewash it just to get rid of any silica dust. Granular size will also have an "impact" on a chicken's crop, especially little chicks. I have read many a sad story where chickens and chicks have eaten a little too much fine sand and have suffered from an impacted crop. Is this the norm? Not necessarily, but it is a risk you should know about and consider. So if you are set on using sand, then just keep a close eye on your little balls of fluff and even on the crop health of the larger fluffy fannies in your flock. Physical Performance of SandWe need to consider how sand generally performs in certain conditions like heat, cold, wet and dry conditions and then ascertain if it is a good material to use around poultry that are specifically in your area. Yes, your climate can effect whether or not sand is a good choice as a coop, or run material. Sand in general:
Now that we know the general properties and uses of sand, now we can apply that to specifics, such as chicken keeping. Poor InsulatorChickens, like most creatures on this earth, require heat to stay warm, and cooling to keep from over heating. Since sand is a poor insulator (it's hot in sun and cold in shade), does it make sense to use it in cold wet climates? Maybe not. I don't know at what temperature chickens experience frost bite on their tootsies, but you should be made aware of this possibility as sand used in runs where wet frigid winter conditions are the norm, so that tidbit of info may influence your decision. Unless of course your plan on making snow shoes for your birds, or your coop is large enough to house all of your birds comfortably, without going stir crazy, in their nice warm coop right? Well, again, since heat rises, the sand floor of the indoor coop is going to still be rather cold, as long as it is dry, you'll be fine. But I'd put a heat lamp nearer the floor rather than higher up just to be sure the sand is warm, but not too warm. Speaking of too warm, what about the opposite extreme of hot dry climates? I don't know about you, but I have experienced the torture of tip toeing through hot beach sand- - not a fun thing to do. If your chicken run is uncovered, or not shaded by trees, then sand in your chicken run is not a wise choice for obvious reasons, unless you plan on inventing chicken flip-flops to keep their feet off the hot sand. Really, this will hold true for any climate where the run isn't shaded. Sand accumulates a large amount of heat, and darker sand much more so, than lighter colored sand. If you want sand, then cover your run. In my research, moisture is the deciding factor when it comes to heat and cold comfort and moisture even bears on the performance of insulation materials. Most insulation doesn't perform well once wet, except for the natural fibers of wool; this is due to the fiber's natural water and oil content, and its compression resiliency, and sand doesn't have any of these traits. Ehhh.....but I don't think that using wool as a bedding material is going to happen anytime soon. Anyway, when moisture is present in hot conditions, evaporation occurs and thus, produces a cooling effect. But when all moisture is gone, the temperature starts to climb. However, a highly humid climate mixed with either heat, or cold is a problem too. When you have high humidity and heat, evaporation, and therefore cooling is hindered. In a cold and we climate, it is hard to get and stay warm if you get wet, since it takes more energy to heat water than air - - does this make any sense? So what does all of this have to do with using sand in your run and coop? Plenty! If you are going to use sand in your run, or coop in areas that experience extreme temperature fluctuations, and moisture issues, then you had better be prepared to adjust your run and coop's climate accordingly with the use of proper ventilation, insulation, water diversion, as well as temperature and humidity controls. And what about when your little hens dig down into the sand looking for relief from a hot day? Soil (especially clay soil) will hold moister longer in a hot climate better than sand and therefore cool your birds better. Remember, sand wicks away moisture and unless you wet down the sand daily on hot days, or unless your run is covered, it won't be very cool when they dig down into it. But if they hit pay dirt - or moist clay soil, then that would be fine. So how is sand looking so far? Well, let's continue on with the subject of moisture. Moisture Retention of SandChickens need a mostly dry environment to stay healthy. Sand has the ability to either be a good dispersal medium of water, or it can actually hold lots of water just depending on how much water is present and how the sand is applied, or contained, and how much silt, or dirt is in it. This is one of the reason's why washed construction sand is recommended in the coop. Sand itself is not porous and so it doesn't really "absorb" water, rather it wicks water away via water's surface tension that causes it to coat the surface of the sand and it also fills the empty space between the grains causing the sand to expand, thus making it seem like it absorbs water. This is what makes it a good medium for evaporating water quickly, for drainage and filtering, depending on its grain size, and ironically, is also why it is used to help hold back flood waters. Sand bags work because flood waters contain mud which gets trapped in the tiny spaces between the sand grains, this coupled with water's surface tension, the bag's contents (sand, clay, and silt) expands, until it reached a point of saturation. Sandbags will buy you time, but they don't provide complete water proofing. They also hold in a lot of waste material if you know what I mean. Knowing all of this, depending on your situation, sand can be a life saver, or a nightmare. If you're not able to fix a perpetual wet spot in your run due to inclement weather conditions, or if your coop has sprung a leak, sand will buy you time until you can fix it properly. Sand, like duct tape, is a temporary fix, not the end all solution to a chronic moisture problem. Remember how I said that sandbags hold waste material? Well, all that sand in your coop and run has accumulated chicken poo particles, right? Eventually over time, it will start to stink, especially when it gets wet. Sure, this may not happen as quickly for those who free range their birds, those who live in a drier climate, and who are vigilant in their poop scooping, but for those who keep their birds in the run, live in a more humid climate, or are lazy with their poop scooping, then this will be a much bigger issue. Did your favorite chicken expert that sings the praises of sand tell you any of this? I doubt it. Again, sand may not be right for you, so consider well. Moving on. Decomposition/CompostChicken poo, more precisely, composted chicken poo, is a great source of nutrients for your garden! As for poopy sand, well, you can certainly add some sand to your compost pile, but sand does not fully decompose. Minerals in sand such as feldspar and mica will eventually break down and turn into clay minerals, but quartz and silica do not, they remain in their granular form. Garden experts (like Pat Welch) say that sand by itself doesn't make your clay soil lighter, but adding organic matter, such as compost, does lighten clay soil. And you can never harm clay soil by adding too much compost, but you can harm your soil by adding too much sand! Remember, sand doesn't break down all the way, and contains silica which is a major component of concrete, so when you over burden your clay soil with too much sand (fine or course), over 50% by volume, it will cause problems; you could end up with soil that resembles concrete. This seemingly logical solution to lightening heavy clay soil with sand has ruined many a garden, and according to June's addition of This Old House Magazine pg. 48 in the article titled: "Gardening Myth's Busted" we are given the reason why. "The tiny clay particles simply fill in the gaps between the sand grains, resulting in a substance similar to concrete. If you want to improve clay, the secret ingredient is compost, not sand." The Chicken Chick® (I name names when necessary) claims that sand can be added to compost to amend it. Here we go. You can do anything, but the real question is should you? In this case...."Uh.... no Kathy. No, you see, compost is an amendment, so it doesn't need amending." Does she mean that you should compost the sand that has had a year's worth of nasty e-coli laden chicken poop scooped from it? Well, let's see what she says regarding the many benefits of sand:
Possible Vehicle for E-coli?E-coli is a gram-negative, facultatively anaerobic, rod-shaped bacterium of the genus Escherichia that is commonly found in the lower intestine of warm-blooded organisms, according to Wikipedia. So guess what? Anything that is pooped on can harbor e-coli, including straw, shavings and sand, so this seems like a mute point all the way around. No matter what litter you use, the presence of e-coli looms large, however, it is well known that the process of composting kills this pathogen, and many other pathogens due to the heat generated in this process. But since a certain chicken expert says you don't need to compost sand, then that must mean it's safe, right? I don't think so. For me, sand obviously loses this round, unless you have acres and acres of land to process yards and yards of poopy sand in many sandy compost piles, or through a "poopy sand wash" station. Along the same line, I have also read that some of the fabulous things about sand are that the coop and run stay so clean and sanitary, and how easy it is to take care of with a kitty box scooper, or a pitchfork wrapped with hardware cloth . These do seem like great benefits, right? Well, I seriously doubt that the run and coop are as clean and sanitary as they appear to be. Even scooping kitty litter has taught me that small poop bits break off the bigger chunks and remain in the litter box even after meticulous scooping, and the birds themselves don't avoid walking all over their steamy piles of poo, they stomp them into smaller pieces into the sand. Another scary thought .... dear reader, you do realize that the cash in your wallet, though fairly crisp, may not have (forgive me) visible poop smears on it, but nevertheless, there are microscopic traces of fecal matter on dollar bills. As for the claims of easy maintenance and neat appearance, well, did you get chickens because you felt it would be easy and not messy? Taking care of animals has it challenges, and messes to deal with. I'm all for ease and neatness, but that should not be the sole reason for adopting any method of keeping animals. For example, I saw an episode of 'The Incredible Dr. Pol' where a seasoned farmer thought it would be easier for him to feed his cattle earlier in the evening, rather than later. As a result they all got sick, because the time between the last evening meal and the morning meal was too long. Dr. Pol was not impressed with his new and easy feeding method. So here we have a real life example of what is easy and best for you, isn't better for your animals. This may apply to the use of sand...so consider it well. Other Things To ConsiderSome other things to consider when deciding whether or not to use sand are:
All of these question will contribute as to whether or not sand is the right choice for you. Experts That Recommend SandThere are many chicken keeping experts out there, like the afore mentioned The Chicken Chick®, who in particular, calls sand "the litter superstar." And they, like her, extol the virtues of sand to the point that their pro's column far exceeds that of their con's column. She seriously has 18 pro's and only 2 con's in her article. Hmmm, that seems so incredible to me. How did something like sand go so long, being largely unused by past generations of chicken keepers, if in fact it's so great as bedding material? So does that mean that there are really only a couple of con's for bringing sand into your coop and run? To me, it just means that this medium works for them, but that doesn't mean it will be "the litter superstar" for others. And because of that, I think it is highly irresponsible for people like The Chicken Chick® and other sand "yes men" to not give a thorough break down and a more honest and balanced pro's and con's list for using sand as litter. Experts must understand their responsibility to those who look to them for advice, and some don't, and some even block you from commenting on their site if you disagree with them. Right Kathy? "You've Been Blocked From Commenting..."After I read account, after account of sand users here in So.Cal.(read Lianne's story here) that were experiencing putrid odors coming from their coops laid with sand over concrete (after winter rains) and the difficulty they had in getting rid of it, I was starting to reconsider using it. But since I wanted to use sand, I just filed the information away and kept searching. Then I found The Chicken Chick's® article, and to my amazement, no mention of these problems were on her con's list, so you know me, I had to comment and tell her how irresponsible I felt she was for recommending sand with out doing more research. Even I, a lowly beginner, ran into many negative experiences with using sand by other chicken keepers, from novices like me, to veterans. Surely, Lianne could not have been the only one who found sand to be a bad choice at the time Kathy wrote her article extolling the virtues of sand. Do you know what happened after I entered my comment? She blocked me from commenting on her site. Really??? Yes, really. I didn't use four letter words, nor was I verbally abusive, even so, I'm not allowed to comment anymore. Ya know, I have found that there are people these days who have very thin skins. They simply can't handle the slightest hint of what they consider to be "negativity" in the form of criticism, constructive or otherwise. And as if that isn't bad enough, the harbinger of "negativity" is then usually labeled as a "cyber bully." In my humble opinion (Kathy), if you are going to give advice, then you need to be able to take criticism along with the praise. If you can't handle criticism, or people disagreeing with you, then don't give advice. I can only wonder how many people she has blocked from her site and then erased their comments. At any rate, I won't be going on her site anymore...why bother if I'm not welcome, besides I feel that she is thin skinned and more importantly, irresponsible. Thankfully, there are indeed a gazillion other chicken experts out there who give great information via good research, are prompt with their advice, and have thick skins ta boot! I just hope those who blindly follow her irresponsible and one dimensional advice don't experience any adverse effects. But what about those who do bring sand into their run, coop, and brooder only to find it's not the superstar litter they were told it was? All I can say is that anyone taking on the responsibility of raising animals needs to accept liability in adopting any practice they use, even though an "expert" recommended it. You must make the best educated decision you can with as much information as you can gather. But there are people who don't have the patients to research and think for themselves, so they put their good faith in the 'expert.' I'm not saying that to be snotty, it's simply the truth. What I Finally Decided OnRather than using sand, pine shavings, or news paper, (all mediums that have their pros and cons) I opted for straw in the coop, and dirt in the run. I know... The Chicken Chick® is probably rolling her baby blues right now as she reads this, right? (wink) Why straw?
Yesiree dear reader, until our hens learn to use the dunny, we need to choose what type of litter to use in our bird's coops, runs, and brooders. Those who are trying to decided whether or not sand is the best material for your coop, run, or brooder, then I hope this article has at least given you some food for thought and I admonish you to do your homework and consider well before you act, so you can make a more informed decision. And for even more excellent information on this subject, Lisa from Fresh Eggs Daily® has written a great article, which tempers the Chicken Chicks® vastly skewed pros list, because Lisa also has many other points and facts to share that were not covered by Kathy or myself. Hey, I can't know it all, right? And the best part is that if you disagree with Lisa's information and advice-- guess what? She won't block you, and neither will I! Other articles you may like...
Last week I went through a crisis of sorts. My favorite little hen (Olive) had taken to the nesting box. So, to me it appeared that she had separated herself from the flock. Oh no!-- as a flocking animal that can only mean one thing, she was sick! Not wanting to jump headlong into the deep end of the pool of wrong conclusions, I picked her up and checked her vent, and what I saw didn't assuage my fears. There appeared to be a mixture of clear and cloudy discharge. Well, that can't be good! My heart sank all the way down to my bare feet as they hit the bottom of the pool of panic. Sorry, but no photo was taken of my hen's hiney, as that was the last thing on my mind at the moment. I had NO idea what this meant, and as a rookie chicken owner I did what most of us newbies do besides panic, I sat in front of my computer and consulted Google. Looking For Help On The WebI reasoned that she wasn't egg bound because she had laid an egg the day before, and she laid again that afternoon. What a relief! And that also meant no egg was busted in her innards since the newly laid egg was free from any sticky yellow goo. Whew! Two down but a zillion other possibilities loomed large. After what seemed like hours of harried Google searching, I came across the frightening possibility that Olive might have something called vent gleet. What in the wide wide world of sports is vent gleet? This horrid sounding condition is a fungal infection brought on by an imbalance of good and bad naturally occurring bacteria, caused by stress (such as extreme heat like we've been having here in So.Cal. lately) or even by a sour crop. Sour crop is a whole other story that I hope to avoid telling, but you can certainly research that on your own. Basically, if your chicken has a sour crop, chances are it also has vent gleet and that means you aren't taking proper care of your chickens dietary needs (face palm). I really had NO idea if she had any of this for sure, but I was for sure overwhelmed by the process of figuring it all out, and then all of the treatments seemed as varied as the symptoms, and some were even contradictory. MORE STRESS! I mean come on - - earlier in the week I had to bury my beloved cat Pepper who was mowed down by an anonymous midnight motorist, I was in the process of preparing to cater a tea party with 36 guests, and now my favorite chicken was sick because of my possible dietary negligence. But rather than admit that, I was totally willing to think that I might possibly be cursed, yeah, or the old idiom of when it rains it pours was in effect also crossed my frantic mind. Anyway, in regards to Google searches, let me just say that it is very hard to diagnose a disease via Google searches. Do you know why? Because there are a lot of diseases that have the same symptoms, and an inexperienced person has no way of knowing other possible signs to look for, because not all of the symptoms apply, or some are not listed on the site, and the experts aren't there to see exactly what is going on. And now my thoughts concerning chicken expert websites... dear reader, I don't know about you but I have found that a lot of these chicken experts are relatively difficult to get a hold of especially in the midst of your crisis, and they don't answer many of the questions they receive regardless of how frivolous, or serious they may be. Now why do you suppose that is? Because they are most likely busy with their own daily lives, or busy with their own chicken issues, or maybe they don't know the answer to your question so they ignore it, or maybe they are busy writing some more expert articles where they won't be answering many of your newbie questions any time soon due to the afore mentioned reasons. Sorry dear reader, but they simply don't have time to hold our hands through every one of our newbie chicken crises. I had to quickly come to grips with the reality that I was pretty much on my own-- *gasp* Poor Olive! More STRESS! Yes dear reader, I had to suck it up for the sake of my little chicken, and pray for guidance, because my little Olive sure wasn't going to tell me what was wrong, and as a domesticated bird, she depends on me for her health and well being. (Oh Lord... HELP!... and please give me strength! Amen.) Then miraculously, guidance is what I got! Gee, thanks Lord for being available 24/7/365, and thank you for not blocking me from your heavenly forum! As it turned out, for some reason and unbeknownst to me, I started to search out the signs of chicken broodiness and B-I-N-G-O! Olive didn't have vent gleet like I had first feared, she has been trying to hatch eggs! And thanks to Lisa and her website Fresh Eggs Daily, I learned how to put a stop to this unnecessary and potentially harmful behavior. Unnecessary because I don't have a rooster to sire any chicks, so no matter how long Olive sits on those eggs, they won't be hatching any time soon. Potentially harmful because a broody hen doesn't eat, drink, or subsequently poop hardly at all while sitting on a nest for up to three weeks. THREE WEEKS! That means no eggs are being laid, and harvesting eggs is the whole reason why I have chickens. And you know what all of that other stuff like not eating and drinking can lead too...a visit from the feathery Grim Reaper. And so, I had to get Olive to"snap out of it" and fast, because apparently, broodiness is also contagious. Contagious? Yes, contagious! What To DoAccording to many chicken experts out there, broodiness might be contagious in that this mother hen behavior is catchy, not that it is brought on by germs. There also seems to be a strong inclination to this behavior in certain breeds. Which is fine if you are a breeder who wants to avoid the use of incubators to hatch chicks, but not fine if you want to collect eggs for daily consumption. To prevent the spread of this mother hen syndrome, if possible, separate your broody birdy from the rest of the flock with the use of a wire dog, or rabbit cage. Just don’t make a nest in the cage, because the idea here is to have air circulate and cool her under carriage down which should reset her maternal clock back to laying hen, not crazed mother hen. And of course provide her with fresh water and feed daily. And it just occured to me that I need to let her out for her dust bath, then its back to lock up. There are other various methods of dealing with this natural behavior, but this is the one I'm going with for now, and the other methods such as having the bird sit in a cold water bath doesn't work for everyone, according to other experts. So how long will it take for her to get over this? Your guess is as good as any chicken expert's. I have read estimates that range from a couple of days to never. NEVER! How's that for covering your bases? As for me, I'm just going to wait until I see an egg in the crate with Olive ignoring it, and then I'll know she's cured. Or until she stops ruffling her feathers at me when I come in the run. Until then, she's a jail bird like the Buff Orpington pictured below: Well, I'll give her a week before I start the cycle of panic once more. Then I might try the cold water spa treatment. Maybe. I think that will be my last resort. What I've LearnedThrough this process of a potential medical crisis turning into a completely natural yet annoying situation, I've learned some things about vent gleet, sour crop, how prevention is worth a pound of cure, broody hen behavior, and I've even learned a thing or two about myself. When the chips are down and I'm stressed out, I've discovered that I can push past all that anxiety and rely on the Lord to help me get through any farm animal trial, or tribulation. Ooorah! And incidentally, I've also learned that I've been blocked from commenting on the Chicken Chick's® website. Yes, dear reader in my time of need, I was rejected by the Chicken Chick®. I think I've only commented once on her site in regards to her article on using sand in the chicken run and coop. Apparently she, or her website mediator can't take criticism, or "negative" comments, but that's another story soon to be written. Anyway, here are some broody symptoms that I've encountered plus some others that I've seen on chicken expert websites (including the thin-skinned Chicken Chick's® website) -
Yes, I may like to poke fun at the 'experts,' but I also like to cut the 'experts' some slack, especially the ones who know they don't know it all, and give responsible recommendations. Every situation isn't the same and every hen is her own bird regardless of breed traits. To generally lump all things into a one size fits all package is living in a fantasy land for the most part, and is not being firmly grounded in reality. The fact is that not all remedies work for all birds when broodiness strikes, so I'll keep you posted. P.S. I don't block 'negative' commentators, or those who give criticism, constructive or otherwise. Why? Because I don't care for the "yes man" mentality. However, I will change any four letter words to symbols, since I would like to keep this site as near to the "G" rating as possible.
P.P.S. To help me save time, it would be nice if you did the symbol thing for me, if you have a penchant for using those colorful metaphors ; ) |
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